As the plant establishes, buds will start to develop up the entire length of the woven stem. The buds that sprout from the top section of the wand – that is, above the decorative willow collar, should be left to grow and develop into top branches and so create the crown of the plant. Those that appear below the collar on the decorative stem should be rubbed off as they appear in the first season to maintain the woven effect. By the second season appearance of these buds will greatly diminish, then almost cease.

Ensure that at least one, preferably 2 buds, develop from the top of each individual stem. Should no buds initially develop above the collar, then allow at least one to remain and develop from just below the collar, to ensure viability of each stem until they have all grafted together. Trim the top branches at least twice the first season.

For a more dense, ‘topiary’ effect, trim the new growth by about half every few weeks through the season – as many as four times in the first year. This encourages more side shoots and so the crown will fill in.

For a looser crown effect, or to reach desired crown size sooner, the new growth can be just ‘tip-pruned’ once they are 15-20 cm in length.

It is essential to prune the crown at least once per season. Never cut into the willow rods that form the top of the main stem.

If the wand is likely to be experience high winds in exposed sites, the crown should be trimmed more often for the first couple of seasons, until the main stem has grafted together and strengthened. In mid to late August you should trim the wand for the last time before winter. Trimming later will encourage soft new growth late in the season, which is then more prone to die-back the following winter.

You can trim again in early spring, just before bud burst, to encourage side shoots and new growth.

Important: The plastic tie beneath the decorative willow band at the top of the wand must NOT be removed until the main stem has grafted together into one trunk. This normally takes two seasons, but if in any doubt, leave in place.

As mentioned, willow is strong growing and you find that it will grow round and over the tie rather than being strangled by it, so you may choose not ever to remove it. Removing it too early will result in the wand unfurling and losing its beautiful weave. If the decorative willow band covering the plastic tie deteriorates and you wish to replace it, simply use any thin length of living willow and wrap it carefully around the wand, securing with a ‘slip-knot’.

Remember that the stem height never increases – it is not possible to add some more weave to gain extra height. Over the years the trunk that has grafted together from the nine stems will increase slowly in diameter and lose its youthful colouring. However, it will gain a distinguished and arguably even more beautiful aged bark, whilst still retaining the stunning woven effect.

With regular but minimal care, the wand will remain the focal point of your garden, patio or terrace for many years to come. NOTE: Every wand is absolutely unique. Due to the use of natural material and the hand-crafted techniques involved, no two wands are ever identical. Slight variations in size, colour of bark, markings and minor imperfections are all perfectly normal. Every single wand is individually inspected and leaves our workshops in pristine condition.

It is essential the guidance above is followed closely to ensure success, and especially important that there is minimal delay between purchase and either planting or temporarily storing in water, to ensure the living stems don’t dry out. Do not leave in original packaging, or in parked cars, etc, as temperatures can very rapidly increase and fatally damage the wand.

Depending on the season of planting, signs of growth should normally be apparent within 6 weeks from planting.

The willow variety we use has been carefully selected as it has good resistance to pests and diseases, so it should be generally trouble-free. Aphids may become apparent in early summer around stem tips and leaf buds.

As described above, pinching out the growing tips is necessary to encourage side shoots, so often this removes sufficient aphids to prevent problems. If a more severe infestation occurs then spraying with a weak solution of washing up liquid, soft soap or pyrethrin will solve the issue. Caterpillars can also occasionally strip leaves or very rarely whole plants bare in summer months.

For light infestations of the small, bright caterpillars of the tortrix moth, simply pick off, but a more severe attack may require a pyrethrum spray. Bright red blisters on the leaves are caused by the blister mite; simply pinch the blister or pick the affected leaf off.

It is very rare for any of the above pests to affect the long-term health of the plant, especially if the suggestions above are followed.